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Line
Drawings, Vector Art top
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EPS (Encapsulated
PostScript) is preferred for all non-photographic images, including
logos, charts, etc, that you can not create in your page layout
program. If you create your document in FreeHand, CorelDraw or Illustrator,
you can of course provide these elements in the native format.
Web graphics are usually saved
as GIF files. These are not suitable for commercial printing!
If you need artwork for a printed job, pulling a piece of art off
a web page will result in artwork that looks awful in print (not
to mention the possibility of a violation of copyright). Call us
if you need help with logos or artwork. We can reproduce your existing
logo, or create a new one, that will look good no matter how what
your final output.
Trapping
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of page
Our Rampage
RIP system performs automatic trapping. You do not have to build
in traps; in fact, you should not even attempt to do your own traps,
since these could cause problems with our system.
If you build in custom overprints, YOU MUST INDICATE these
on your laser proofs. Our system may ignore ALL overprints in the
original artwork unless we configure it not to.
Line
Art Scans
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of page
If you scan a line drawing
or logo that is solid black (or another single color):
- Set the resolution
of 600-1200 dots per inch before scanning
- Use the 1-bit bitmap
scanning mode
- Make sure the original
is straight before you scan it
Avoid the grayscale mode for solid logos. This mode may leave a
soft fringe around the edges, which will appear ragged when the
film is output.
Color
Artwork Scans top
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Color printed items are
generally not considered camera-ready, thus they are not "scanner"
ready either. If you need to reproduce a logo in two spot colors,
for instance, a color scan will not work. Color bitmap images can
only be separated as process color. Even if you assign a Pantone
color in Photoshop, this image will not retain the color assignment
except as RGB or CMYK. The best solution is to recreate the logo
in a drawing program that supports Pantone spot colors. If this
is not possible, consider one of these workarounds:
- Scan the logo as a
1-bit black and white image, and save a copy for each color. Make
separations manually be erasing the other color areas, leaving
only the portion for the current color. Combine these when you
import them into your page layout program. Assign the correct
color to each portion in the page layout program.
- Create a CMYK file
in Photoshop (this will not work with RGB). Each channel-- cyan,
magenta, yellow and black-- can be used as a substitute for a
spot color. Place the portion of the logo for each color into
one of the color channels. Note: you must use cyan, magenta, yellow
or black to represent spot colors in the entire publication. The
colors may not look correct on your monitor, but the ink colors
will be correct on the press.
- Use Photoshop 5.0 to
create spot color channels. You must save this as a DCS 2.0 format
to import into a page layout file. TIFF files do not support spot
colors.
Scanned
Photographs top
of page
If you choose to scan
your own photos, you should be familiar with the printing process,
especially if you scan color photos. Although scanning technology
has evolved at the desktop user, the printing process is just as
demanding as ever. Scans that are optimized for a web page will
not be suitable for commercial printing.
Recommendations for
halftone scans:
- 266
dpi minimum resolution at printing size for 133 to 150 lpi (lines
per inch)
- 300
dpi minimum resolution at printing size for 150 to 175 lpi
- 8-bit
grayscale TIFF format; EPS if clipping path is used
- Do
not save as JPEG, unless you use the highest quality setting,
and only as the very last step
- 3-5%
highlight dot
- 90-92%
shadow dot
- Unsharp
masking applied carefully to avoid halos
Recommendations for
color scans:
- Professional drum or
high-end CCD scans preferred
- 266 dpi minimum resolution
at printing size for 133 to 150 lpi
- 300 dpi minimum resolution
at printing size for 150 to 175 lpi
- CMYK TIFF, EPS or DCS
format
- Do not save as JPEG,
unless you use the highest quality setting, and only as the very
last step
- 2-3c, 1-2 m, 1-2y,
0k for highlight
- UCR (Under Color Removal),
Black limit = 85%
- TIC (Total Ink Coverage)
of 280%
- Unsharp masking applied
carefully to avoid halo
If you produce your own
scans, you assume all responsibility for color and image fidelity.
Digital
Camera Images top
of page
As the quality goes up
and the prices go down, digital cameras are increasing in popularity.
But are they a good choice for commercial printing? The answer ranges
from "sort of" to "definitely not". Digital
cameras are not the same as film cameras. Except for models costing
several thousands of dollars, most digital cameras do not perform
as well as even inexpensive point-and-shoot film cameras. Few of
the consumer digital models offer SLR (single lens reflex) capabilities,
meaning that the viewfinder uses different optics than the lens.
The technology used by these digital cameras inherently makes some
compromises in color in order to make them portable and (relatively)
affordable.
If you intend to use a
digital camera instead of a film camera, follow these suggestions
for the best possible results:
- Use only "megapixel"
or "2 megapixel" camerasthose with resolutions
at least 1280 by 960 pixels
- Avoid older cameras
with only 640 by 480 pixels
- Use the maximum quality
and minimum compression available. JPEG compression used by these
cameras deteriorates the image quality at higher compression rates.
This will mean fewer images will fit in your digital camera, so
you may need additional storage cards or disks.
Resolution requirements
in dots per inch are the same for digital camera images as for scanned
images. The chart below gives the recommended maximum reproduction
size, based on the number of pixels wide.
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Pixel width
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Maximum size for printing
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640
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2.5"
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960
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3.75"
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1280
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5"
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1600
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6.25"
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If your project calls
for images larger than these, you should shoot the photographs on
film.
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Most
Frequent Problems with Scanned Photos top
of page
- Resolution is too low. The rule
of thumb for resolution is that the dots per inch should
be double the line screen ruling, for a 2:1 ratio; i.e.
300 dpi for 150 lpi. As this ratio falls, pixelation becomes
evident in the final print. Web images are not suitable
for printing; they may look great on screen, but they do
not have enough pixels to meet printing requirements.
- Image is enlarged too much.
Since the number of pixels in a photo is fixed, enlarging
the photo does the same as lowering the resolution. Scan
photos as close to the reproduction size as possible. If
you have to go enlarge the photo in your page layout by
more about 120%, consider rescanning at the right size.
You cannot increase the resolution in Photoshop and get
good results; it has to manufacture the extra pixels, and
does not render any additional detail.
- JPEG format. Great for web,
but not for printing. The compression scheme used in JPEG
is a "lossy" compression. Depending on the amount
of compression, much of the detail may be forever lost.
Repeated saves of the same image as JPEG will make it worse
every time. If you must use JPEG, save the photo in this
format only as the very last stage, and keep a copy in TIFF
or Photoshop format.
- No highlight. Areas in a photo
with a value of 0% black (grayscale) or 0% in all colors
of a CMYK image will appear in print as a harsh shine. There
will be a marked contrast between this area and the dots
adjacent to it. This problem occurs most often because of
incorrect scan settings or improper use of the color controls.
Tip: Never use Brightness/Contrast to adjust a photo. Use
Levels or Curves instead; these will give you more control
than Brightness/Contrast and are less likely to "blow
out" the highlights. Conversely...
- Pixels remaining in knocked-out
areas. If you remove the background of an image, make
sure you get all of it. Colors in the 1-2% range can be
very difficult to see on the monitor, but will stick out
like a sore thumb on press. Here is one way to check for
loose pixels: In Photoshop, make a duplicate layer (so you
don't disturb the actual image). Use the Threshold command
on the duplicate layer and set the value to 255. All but
absolute white areas will show as solid black. Zoom in to
100% or greater, since very small areas may not appear at
views less than 100%. If you see black pixels where the
background should have bee removed, go back to the original
layer or background and erase these areas. Delete the duplicate
layer and save your final image.
- No shadow detail. This is a
very common problem with low-cost scanners, and is one reason
why scanners are still available for tens of thousands of
dollars. Although many mid-range scanners do an adequate
job of bringing out detail in dark areas, entry-level scanners
lack the dynamic range.
- Lack of contrast. Photos are
said to be "flat" if there is little contrast
between the highlights and shadows.
- Poor color quality. Uncalibrated
monitors, inadequate scanning hardware, and lack of operator
training and experience are frequent contributing factors
to poor color quality. If the monitor is not properly calibrated,
the operator cannot make accurate visual judgements of color.
If the operator does not have an understanding of color
systems, it is difficult to even recognize that the scanner
or monitor is not calibrated correctly. For best results,
the monitor should be adjusted to match the color of the
printed piece, a Matchprint or other reliable off-press
proof. Color calibration is too complex a subject to discuss
here; if you have questions about it, drop us a line and
we will refer you to some other sources.
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